CAN FLOWERS BLOOM ON CONCRETE?

In the ever changing world of fashion, creativity isn’t confined to design alone—it’s about navigating challenges that lie far beyond the runway. For many Mexican brands eager to expand internationally, the post-pandemic momentum has collided with a new obstacle: an ever-shifting landscape of tariffs and trade uncertainties amid a simmering trade war.

 

Navigating the Tariff Tango

Running a fashion business today demands more than knowing trends; it requires mastering the intricate dance of tariffs. Increasingly, Mexican brands seeking to break into international markets are forced to learn the language of customs and trade regulations. As Itzel Real, founder of Flavante puts it, the challenges are as unpredictable as they are complex:

“Right now, all this stuff happening with Trump and such, along with our expansion into the U.S. market, has really affected us directly. Last year, we spent so much time commuting to Mexico City twice a month [it] allowed us to connect with a community of people from the USA, mainly from New York and Los Angeles. So thanks to networking, thanks to me being in those spaces and engaging with these people we managed to carve out a space in small niches and communities over there. There were these two stores that wanted our product: one was Totem and the other was Doors New York. However, we’re still reviewing everything involved in making it happen, like the logistics of sending the pieces and, above all, the taxes we had to pay. And well, precisely as a small business that’s constantly growing, all these tariffs were very ambiguous.”

This uncertainty has forced brands to rethink their strategies. Itzel explains further:

“There’s a lot of uncertainty, and since we were just starting to get advice from a customs agency, they told us we had to wait for now. That there was a lot of uncertainty—we might end up paying more, or less—but they recommended we pause the entire process.”

This feeling of uncertainty is shared across the mexican fashion industry ecosystem. Mauricio López Zorrilla, Co-Founder and CEO of Tanamachi, who shares: “We don't know exactly how it will end. We don’t know if Claudia [Sheinbaum] will succeed in negotiating with Trump. We don’t know if it will be a tariff imposed on absolutely all imports into the United States from Mexico, whether it will be 25%, more, or less. So, for now, let’s say the important thing is that we’re prepared for any scenario—but it won’t be implemented until it’s certain."

 

Battling the Logistical Labyrinth

Beyond regulatory hurdles, logistics have become a minefield. Shipping products to the U.S.—once seen as the next logical step after gaining traction as a brand—has turned into a costly experiment:

“We kept having to take down the website for users. Like, one client ordered pants, and we sent them, but the package got held at customs. We couldn’t recover it—we only got back the ones tied to their payments. So, we decided we’ll try again. We won’t tell people we’re going through this process because we want to seem professional, you know? Like a business that’s got its logistics figured out.

We tried again, but it took a lot of effort because it’s a piece made with four meters of pleated fabric—it’s expensive for us to make, let alone pay for shipping again. And then, the package got held at customs again, so we were basically losing money.

Right now, we have no way to get our packages into the U.S. because customs is holding them.” Expreses Itzel from Flavante.

The inability to reliably deliver products to a market that’s clearly ready to buy is as frustrating as it is disheartening. This logistical quagmire has forced brands to pause expansion plans—even as they witness growing demand among consumers in cities like New York and Los Angeles.

The experience a consumer has buying - online or else- is only a culmination of the multiple aspects a brand must take into account and coordinate to offer a satisfactory journey. Lindsey Alt, founder of Consulting Agency Alt Creative establishes that now, more than ever, we must coordinate efforts right from the bottom of the business structure. Alt affirms supply chain and deadlines must become a priority for brands looking to gain traction in the northamerican market:

In an industry as intricate such as fashion, refurbishing a supplier chain might prove challenging, Álvaro Barrera Lozano, Founder and Design Director at ABL Estudio — a northern Mexican brand already making inroads into the North American market — confesses: “We’re trying to focus heavily on finding fabrics here in Mexico—which is pretty difficult, honestly. I’d love for someone here to sell silks at the level we want, but we’re kinda scraping by and finding fabrics here in Mexico. Mexican leathers? There are some really good ones—that’s awesome. Cottons and other fabrics, though… I think they’re mostly used by larger manufacturers. The fabric [at a competitive quality for the luxury market] sometimes just isn’t available.

But yeah, [...] I will be focusing a bit more on finding more opportunities here in Mexico.”

 

Learning from the Trade War: Voices from the Field

Industry experts warn that the impact of tariffs is not limited to fashion alone. Recent reports by CNN and the Los Angeles Times highlight how trade policies—such as reciprocal tariffs —are reshaping global markets. In this volatile environment, mexican fashion brands are rethinking everything from production to retail strategies.

For her part, Alejandra Boland, an International Fashion Business Consultant, believes that the impact of tariffs on the logistics of brands seeking to enter the U.S. market is a multidimensional challenge. She explains:

“If the U.S. implements more tariffs, import costs will rise, affecting the competitiveness of brands that depend on direct exports and their participation in trade shows. This means that:

Final prices will increase, and without a well-defined value strategy, this can affect sales and retailer interest. Brands that lack well-structured margins may be at a disadvantage compared to local options or those from countries with more favorable trade agreements.

Retailers will become more selective, prioritizing brands with assured demand and strong differentiation. My role as a curator and matchmaking specialist will be key to ensuring that the brands I work with have solid value propositions that justify their price in the market.

Logistics and distribution need to be rethought, exploring strategic hubs such as Mexico, Miami as a distribution center, or even Europe as an alternative for expansion. The relocation of production is something many brands must consider to reduce import costs.

Channel diversification is essential: relying solely on trade shows and retailers is no longer enough. Brands that wish to grow in the U.S. must combine retail with local e-commerce, strategic showrooms, and collaborations with niche retailers who can absorb part of the cost impact.”

However, what might initially seem like an obstacle can be reinterpreted as a step towards maturing or to provide structure to brands and businesses. Tariffs, Boland suggests, also represent an opportunity for Latin American brands to professionalize their logistics, optimize costs, and reinforce their market positioning.

Boland further reflects on the cultural dimensions shaping U.S. consumer behavior:

“There is a divided consumption: part of the market actively seeks ‘Made in USA’ products and prioritizes local brands, but there is also an ever-growing community that values diversity, authenticity, and the unique propositions of foreign brands. The key is to understand which segment is best suited for each brand and how to communicate the differential value without triggering rejection in a polarized environment.

Economic nationalism may cause some retailers to be more closed off, yet the Latin consumer in the U.S. is growing and wields significant purchasing power. Brands that can genuinely connect with this audience can find a solid niche.

The brand narrative is more crucial than ever: in this context, simply stating ‘we are a Latin brand’ is not enough. It is vital to build a strategic storytelling that positions the brand within values that truly resonate with consumers—sustainability, quality, exclusive design, purpose.

Retail is in transformation: beyond nationalism, large groups and retailers are undergoing change and restructuring, increasingly seeking brands with unique DNA and innovative proposals. Differentiation remains the key to entry and survival.”

Although protectionist tendencies are real, Boland emphasizes that Latin brands can indeed flourish in the U.S. market if they approach it with a clear strategy, a strong brand identity, and a robust logistics and commercial structure.

López Zorrilla from Tanamachi is already picking up on the cues of the environment to emphasize brand narrative: "I believe our consumer will remain loyal to us. I believe our consumer will continue to seek innovative garments, quality clothing, pieces that give you a standout look and a really cool aesthetic—which is what Tanamachi has always offered. Naturally, we will strengthen all these unique differentiators that position us in that market and keep us exporting consistently every week, every month.”

López Zorrilla also expresses that beyond social division, economic division will likely arise as a decisive factor for consumers and retailers to shop for new brands:

“Beyond the challenges, I still see opportunities for brands that understand the market, have a clear proposition, and focus on building strong relationships with their consumers and retailers. The future of international fashion lies in strategy, flexibility, and a genuine connection with the consumer,” Alejandra Boland asserts.

Meanwhile, Barrera Lozano offers his perspective: “Everything that’s happening regarding nationalism, I think, is going to affect everyone. I mean, we’re all going to feel the impact. And I believe that 100% prices in the United States are going to rise.”

Facing this scenario, he adds, “If I can continue to get supplies here in Mexico, work here in Mexico, and sell them to the United States, I believe that our prices will be able to continue competing with U.S. brands of the same quality. And we would have to figure out a way to reduce tariff costs as much as possible. But, well, we have to adapt and find a way to keep selling. But I really think that this is going to make the product very expensive over there.”

This represents an opportunity for mexican brands to look inward and expand into a market that is sometimes overlooked - the national and local market. Mexican consumers have sometimes proven to be hard to gain by mexican fashion brands, however López Zorrilla comments: “From here, I see an uncertain future, a future that will shift constantly—literally like quicksand—but not everything will necessarily be bad, super negative, or cause a slowdown, right? This year we’ve seen a slight decline in sales on our website since January, but sales through physical stockists in Mexico City, Guadalajara, and other areas have remained very strong and steady.”

The Road Ahead: Resilience and Reinvention

Despite the formidable challenges posed by tariffs and unpredictable trade policies—exacerbated by protectionist measures championed by figures like Donald Trump—there remains a steadfast determination within the Mexican fashion community.

About the challenging environment, Lindsey Alt expresses that there is no doubt brands will face hurdles, however, it all falls back on how well they are able to capture new consumers’ attention and loyalty, signaling that good service and smooth delivery will impact businesses now more than ever:

“⁠International brands should expect some resistance in the beginning due to so much logistic uncertainty surrounding the tariffs however, it’s important to keep in mind the facts: In 2023, Mexico exported approximately $456 billion worth of goods to the United States and apparel is among the largest categories… to think the US consumer will be able to replace those goods domestically and quickly is a long shot. In order to avoid losing potential business brands need to do their due diligence and look for allies across the border who can import the product and ensure a smooth delivery to clients and stores in the US.”

In regions like Mexico and Latin America—where brands are often built on lean, multifunctional teams—the challenges extend beyond design. From sourcing and production to logistics and retail, every step in the process has become a delicate dance disrupted by the uncertain beat of tariffs. Yet, for many, this very struggle is inspiring innovation. They’re not just waiting for clearer skies; they’re reengineering their strategies, building stronger local networks, and exploring alternative channels to bring their creations to consumers both at home and abroad.

The mexican fashion industry is one overflowing with emerging brands, however, what could be an industry frail to macroeconomic conditions is also one full of teams able to be flexible and agile towards ever-changing scenarios.

López Zorrilla from Tanamachi establishes:

“We’ve never wanted to be a fast-fashion brand or a massive, gigantic company. That is, we want to market very beautiful products, high-quality products, and 100% Mexican products. So, I believe the demand for this type of product will never stop and even less so now with, let’s say, the gradual dismantling of all the big brands.

Look, [traditional] luxury—well, we’re already seeing it—will eventually decline little by little, I’d like to think. Or they will truly suffer a downturn. As small brands, we have to be very quick, very flexible, and super astute to figure out how to gain market share. Doors can open; opportunities can arise."

In a world where economic and political climates shift as abruptly as fashion trends, one lesson remains clear: success is rooted in adaptability. Even when the odds seem stacked against them, these brands are proving that with creativity, resilience, and strategic vision, flowers can indeed bloom on concrete.